Ubud:                                                                          Back
The times I spent in Ubud were some of my greatest vacations. This little Artist village is everything that I've ever read about it & more. I won't be the first person who couldn't  find the words to describe Ubud & I won't be the last. The atmosphere in this little piece of Heaven is spectacular. The arts: (both visual & Performing); the music; the shops; the restaurants; the inns; the temples and the Monkey Forest were all great and the people (Both residents and the tourists) were some of the friendliest and helpful I've ever met.
	Left: Clockwise from top left, Nadia, James, Jack & Ursula Stevens are from Adelaide, South Australia. We spent a few great days in the pool, The kids needed a shark & I was elected. Somehow I metamorphosed into a submarine, I believe that was Ursula's idea.   Anyway I had to chase them around the pool. They had a great time & I think Ursula had a slight crush on me, anyway I have a standing invitation to visit them in Adelaide. One night we went to see the Ramayana  Ballet.		Of course Ursula had to sit next to me & I had to explain everything that was going on. (Luckily I had read a little about this great epic, so I could give her the basic story.) The kids loved the little kids dressed up as the monkey legions.
			Finally I left for Kuta & they for Thailand (Their vacation still had a ways to go & I had to get back to work.) When I got to Kuta Beach I  found out that myself & a group of friends were having a pig roast
The first time I stayed in Ubud I stayed at the Puri Raci   home stay just outside of town. I had the driver, who brought me up from the airport, drive through town & as we pulled in the driveway to turn around I realized that it was a pretty nice place. So That's where I stayed.
It was about a two mile walk to the center of town and along the way you passed quite a few restaurants, art galleries and shops. One of the galleries (Directly across the road.) ended up being the place I stayed on my next trip.
The Puri Raci was a quaint little place with a small but nice pool behind which was a trail that led along a creek, first through woods, then rice fields. One day with camera in hand I followed that trail & ended up at a artists studio. It seems as if all trails on Bali lead to art just as surely as all the trails are picturesque.
While I was staying at the Puri Raci the owner's brother died & I was invited to attend his cremation (See Cremation). His family took me in, as most Balinese seem to do, & made me feel as I was a one of their own. I believe that's one of the reasons for my love of their Island. They were a well to do family, so they didn't as a lot people do, (Because of the cost of a cremation.) bury their loved one to be cremated with others at a later date but cremated him right away.
On my last trip to Ubud I missed, by three days, a village wide Cremation. They were going to exhume & cremate somewhere around 30 bodies. It was to be a great event. I came very close to changing my flight plans.
On my second trip, I lucked out and got there just before Kuningan (A major holy day.) and the owner of the "Young Artist Studio" where I stayed invited me to attend & Video the sacrifice of one of his boars. I wasn't thrilled about the death of that boar but filmed the event anyway. According to their religion he will be reborn, so his death was only a phase & the Gods are pleased. Kuningan and the sister holiday Galungan are times, if you can, to be in Bali. Celebrations are everywhere, with: dance, food, music, cockfights, gambling, etc. (The last two are to placate the demons.) Large processions, carrying offerings to the temples are seen all over the island.
I've seen everything in these offerings including a roasted piglet, though they are usually colored rice cakes & fresh fruit. Once blessed (With holy Water) by a priest the Gods accept the essence of the offering and the offering is taken back home to be enjoyed by the family and guests of the person or persons who made the offering. (Party time.)
You can find out online when the major Balinese holidays are to be held, however there are many smaller celebrations. Every Temple has a holiday to celebrate the anniversary of it's opening. Then there are (If you can get yourself invited.) Tooth filings, weddings, Otonan (a baby's first birthday) etc., plus cremations (Which anyone may attend for free, though your hotel will probably charge you for the event.) If your lucky enough to make friends with someone in a village where a celebration is going to take place try and go as guest. You'll have more fun & learn more about life on Bali.
You can find out about these events by asking a driver of the owners or managers of the place your staying. Unless you are staying in one of the Islands exclusive hotels you won't find a Concierge
On my last trip I found the Artini II (a fantastic home stay on Monkey Forest Road right in the heart of the city.) each time I paid U.S. $20.00 for my room but I probably could have bartered even that price down. The rooms all included breakfast.
Kutut is placing demon offerings at the Artini II homesrtay.		A steep set of stairs lead to a small sub division of Ubud.
Speaking of Bartering Ubud is probably the best shopping area for quality items on the island. Oh, you'll find lower prices Kuta Beach but not in high quality works of art & if you know exactly what it is your looking for you can go to a village that specializes in that type item. For woodcarvings: (Mas), Stone Carvings (Batubulan) Jewelry & silver works (Celuk)  Etc. Any good driver should be able to take you where you can find what you want. (Just remember if they take you they will, at your expense, get a commission. You can avoid this by having your driver drop you off somewhere in town & walking while you shop. If he doesn't take you into the place he won't get that commission. However it is never enough, unless your buying for export, to worry about.)
What ever you do don't spend all of your vacation in Kuta Beach (even though you'll be tempted) If you do you'll miss the real heart of Bali & Balinese life.
If you need a driver while on Bali, try mine. Nyoman Santry (phone # 62 0362 979379)  He's a great guy and a good driver. Don't be surprised if he takes you home to meet his family. (Tell him Al sent you.)
P. S. If you need a massage while in Ubud try  Wayan Karta:  Hondman Stret Padangtegal Ubud. (0361-978370) The man is very reasonable & he was fantastic. I probably over paid him U.S. $20.00 for about a 2 1/2 hour full body massage but I figured he was well worth it.
Other dances you'll see in or around Ubud